It seats about 16 000 and is still in use today for rock concerts. The acoustics are, of course, amazing. I tried speaking from the stage, and could be heard clearly and distinctly at the top row of seats without really raising my voice.
We met up with a touring American, who asked "Is this place twinned with Philly?" "Why?" "Well, I cain't read this arab stuff, but I keep seeing the word 'Philadelphia'." We explained Amman had been called Philadelphia; he seemed cross "You mean, they tried to steal the names of one of the greatest American cities?" "No!" we explained, "It was called Philadelphia long before your city. It sounds Greek, but it was certainly Philadelphia when the Romans were here." He hadn't yet seen the ruins, and asked "Well, when were the Romans here?" "Oh!" I said, "Certainly at the same time they were in Jerusalem over the way." "What were they doing in Jerusalem?" "Don't you remember - they were hanging up Jesus?" I replied. Unfazed, he riposted "Well, that was a long time ago."
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