On the road to Petra

The hotels in Amman have security all round. The one where we were staying had been the scene of a bombing. So I was called to certify that the rental car being delivered was really mine. The local Europcar had done us proud. It was a slightly battered Peugeot with some 150 000km on the clock - but no, it was a very good car (we were assured!) The differential growled, and the brakes probably needed new pads, but it worked.

We were soon on the Desert Highway, heading south towards Wadi Rum. The main surprise was the size of the phosphate mines around Al Abiad. For about 20km we passed through large mine dumps and saw clouds of dust in the desert which clearly marked open-cast mining operations. Finally we turned off towards Petra. But first, we had to pass through the little community of Shobak, and a brown sign said "Shobak Castle." Our Lonely Planet guide said it had a wild, remote feel to it. The description was perfect!Strictly speaking, it was the Crusader castle of Mons Realis or "Montreal." Much of the top was in a state of ruination, with the great spherical boulders catapulted there during a siege to show why it was in such a bad shape. Best preserved was the North-West watchtower, reconstructed by the Arabs in the 13th Cent after they had destroyed the original while capturing the castle.

From Mons Realis, it was a short drive to the town of Wadi Musa (Valley of Moses), the base for exploring Petra. The town is a sprawling mess, right at the end of which we finally found our hotel. At about 4 in the afternoon it became cool enough to venture forth, and we sauntered down the valley leading to the entrance to Petra. Quite a long walk led to a cleft in the mountains, the Siq, up which climbed exhausted-looking tourists and horse-drawn carts bearing more of same.
We went down against the flow, deeper and deeper into the Siq. Sometimes it widened, and there were little tombs by the side of the path.
Finally (the Siq is 1.3km long) there was a glimpse of a really big structure at the end.
You emerge into the open, facing the "Treasury." It seems impossible that the intricate carvings should have been created from solid rock, but the evidence literally stares you in the face.



The chamber inside the Treasury was devoid of objects or decoration - but the natural decoration on the roof and walls fully made up for the lack! It was getting late. The camels were being gathered before being taken home. We would head up the narrow crack opposite, the entrance to the Siq, and head back to our hotel to return the next day.